The Dark Age Project - part 1

The latest project on the work table is my Dark Age armies. Over the years these have grown to a quantity of unpainted figures to reinforce a number of armies; the time has come to paint them.

The armies are all organised for Warhammer Ancient Battles which is a very suitable set of rules for the period, although I also intend trying out the Basic Impetus rules. Initially I had complete armies for Danish Vikings, Northumbrian Saxons, Patrician Romans and Thematic Byzantines. Inspired by the WAB Arthurian supplement I decided to build up enough figures for Twilight of Britannia (Romano-British) and early Saxon Sea Raiders forces. Alongside this I intended to complete my Late Roman/Patrician Roman collection so that I could field a sizeable army and a balanced Gothic/Hunnic to oppose them. (Yes, I know I never keep things simple, do I?) As some of my later Saxons will be used as both early Saxons and Goths and the Late Romans as Romano-British the project does not seem as unwieldy as it might appear at first.

I have always harboured a desire for enough Late Roman units to build up my ideal, large field army. So filling in the gaps to achieve this was my first step. What I wanted was; 4 Legions, 8 Auxilia, 8 Cavalry units. The legions would be 24 figures, the auxilia 12 and the cavalry 6 to 10. I already had complete and painted units I could use. These were;

2 Roman Legions

4 Auxilia

1 Sagitarri Auxilia

I could also use units I had from my early Byzantine army;

2 Light Cavalry units

1 Heavy Cavalry unit

1 Armoured Cavalry unit

& various archers (the rest of this army I had discarded years ago)

I then looked at the figures I already had ready to paint

1 Byzantine Legion

1 Late Roman Cataphract Unit

I intended to paint up the following as part of my Arthurian army using LBMS transfers but also include them in the Late Roman army;

1 Late Roman Legion

1 Auxilia

1 Heavy Cavalry

1 Light Cavalry

This left me two Auxilia and one or two heavy cavalry unit to purchase. For the Auxilia I decided to use Gripping Beast’s Late Roman & Romano-British shieldwalls with command figures to make them up to 12 strength. For the cavalry I had a choice of several manufacturers but narrowed the choice down to Blacktree Design and A & A Miniatures. The first had a sale on and the figures were therefore cheaper than most other ranges, the second was a manufacturer I hadn’t used before and also had figures that would fill in gaps in some of the other units and could supply some Generals and command figures.

NEW BUILDINGS

Over the last few months I've acquired some new buildings from ebay and have scratch-built some others.


The Roman Temple came from ebay and was due to see its first outing in my recent Britannia campaign but I never had the opportunity to put it on table.
It's a handy little piece, very dramatic whilst not dominating the table. I am hoping to add a scratch-built villa in a similar style.






The Roman Watch-Tower also failed to make the table-top in the campaign but I'm sure it will soon. It is a Grand Manner model along with the palisade surround. Another ebay acquisition bought painted and ready to play for less than the price of the unpainted tower alone.









The Turf Fort. My final Dark Age terrain addition was my turf fort. This has been an on-going project for many years. I was never sure how I wanted the towers and gatehouse to look. I didn't want it too strongly defended as it would make assaulting it too daunting. Equally I didn't want it too easily over-run. I finally decided to bite the bullet and finish it off. I think it worked and looked rather impressive. This one did make the campaign table-top with the Saxons choosing to assault it and proving successful in their endeavours. (And yes, I know I could have bought one in resin from a number of manufacturers and saved myself the hard work - but it wouldn't have been the same)

Pirates

I've recently decided to start colecting some pirates and their ships in 28mm for club skirmish games. I hope to post some of the highs and lows of this project on here so keep watching.
Currently I've some ebay auctions ongoing for a couple of ships and some foundry figures.

Bog A Ten

Without giving too much away; here are some photos of the steam launches I have. Ideal for Bog A Ten games.

This is the one from PMC which I have yet to purchase,

Mechanical Men - Update

A number of you have asked for photos of the completed Mechanical Men & at last I can oblige with them in action in a club game (see Manx Wargames Group web site for more photos & a battle report).

New Year

A Happy New Year to anyone reading this. I have the bonus of an extra day off work courtesy of the snow and I've taken the day to update all my web sites, blogs, chat forums and emails. Back to work tomorrow for a rest.
I've not posted in a long while as I've been busy with the wargames club and the website. We've increased the number of games played and the regularity of our meetings, so keeping up to date is hard work. The games must come first though, therefore the web posts have taken a back seat. I've also added a chat forum to the website so we'll see how that goes.
http://chat.manxwargames.co.uk/ Feel free to join in the discussions and add you own comments.
The main club site remains and is updated as soon after each game as I can manage, usually at least every fortnight with plenty of photos. http://www.manxwargames.co.uk/

Mechanical Men - Why & How

MECHANICAL MEN
One of the most popular units in my Victorian Science Fiction collection is the Mechanical Men. I have been asked about how I made them and also how they are used.
Firstly I will explain the rationale behind them. I wanted a unit of artificial humanoids. I imagined them to be a form of early, clockwork robots. They needed to be almost unstoppable in melee but to have a few design flaws due to being prototypes.

Game Play
In the GASLIGHT rules I use units are ten strong, so for this unit I have eight mechanical men and two mechanics to maintain them. They are also supported by their inventor, Professor McHoots; a character figure from Eureka. He has powered skates which allow him double movement. Each mechanical man is rolled for on each turn to sustain its mechanical function. However if the sustain roll is failed that figure cannot move again until Professor McHoots or a mechanic has fixed it. This can lead to the unit being spread out over a considerable distance as the game unfolds. For this reason the unit cohesion rule is ignored. Anyone controlling(?) this unit has therefore got their work cut out. On the plus side each mechanical man is devastating in melee and will almost always kill a human opponent and has a good chance of damaging vehicles or buildings.

Construction
Now comes the interesting bit – how to build your own unit of Mechanical Men.
The upper and lower body, legs and arms come from plastic Games Workshop Empire infantry sets or Mordheim warband (the same figures repackaged I think). I don't know if they are still available but may be on E-bay.

The weapons need to be removed and the legs detached from the lower torso using a sharp modelling knife. The rest of the parts you need are two sorts of small washers. I used 4mm shake-proof washers and 3.5mm flat washers from my local B&Q store – you need quite a lot of these for the entire unit. For the heads I used metal BB pellets but small ball bearings or plastic pellets should work just as well. I used a thick super glue such as Zap-A-Gap throughout. Remember to take care, no one wants a Mechanical Man attached to your fingers – just think what the doctor might say.

The washers are glued together in pairs, 1 shakeproof onto 1 flat. I originally intended using a flat washer sandwiched between 2 shakeproof but the result was slightly too thick in my opinion, but feel free to experiment. The resulting part will act as a joint between arms and shoulder, legs and hips and in the waist of each Man. The serrated nature of the shakeproof washers is intended to give the impression of a gearing mechanism in each joint.
Now glue a washer pair to each shoulder on the upper torso of the figure, the shakeproof washer should face outward. Similarly glue a pair to each hip of the lower torso, shakeproof washer facing outwards. A better bond is produced if the plastic parts are all roughed up with a small file or sand paper prior to gluing. Once dry attach the legs and arms to the appropriate washers. I tried to keep legs fairly straight as the figures need to stand on the base but arms can be stuck in any position. My intention was to have figures obviously flailing their arms about, attempting to maintain balance as they walked.

The next stage was to glue the lower half to the base. Then the final washer pair was glued to the waist of the lower torso. When all this was dry and secure the upper body was glued onto the waist washer with the upper body turned to maintain that flailing appearance. The final part of the construction was to glue the pellet head onto the neck of the upper torso. It is important to allow each stage to set well before attaching the next part. You may find the a little reshaping of parts, such as legs and arms, will result in a better fit onto the washers. The whole structure can seem a little frail at times but once painted and varnished it will become more robust.

The final Mechanical Man is on the right. The other two were earlier versions which I think failed to give the correct impression. I was trying to avoid cutting the legs from the lower torso but in the end I was pleased that I did take the time to do so.

The Paint Job
All that remains is to paint them.
Spray black undercoat all over. Two coats is usually sufficient but as the black colour is a base for the figures a third coat for luck should do.
I then dry brushed most of the figure with a metallic brass colour and the highlighted with a lighter gold shade. This was used to pick out the “cogs” on the shakeproof washers and the edge of each washer in the pairs at each joint. Some of the bands on the wrists and body of the figure can also be painted in the lighter shade. For the head I painted lines and swirls around the black base colour to give the impression of movement within the round head. I then added a couple of silver lines on the head to show reflections and give it more variety.
The results were simple, quick and, in my opinion, effective.

They can work well in other settings too Pulp, Sci-fi, horror etc.

I look forward to your comments and suggestions for improvements.